The aesthetic of Art Deco is as wild as it is wonderful. The bold and innovative jewelry that kicked off this period in history managed to break the rigid models of the past while preserving the best elements of earlier design. An emphasis on platinum and diamonds (and the technological advancements that facilitated the fashioning of both) mixed with vibrant colored stones and new, geometric diamond cuts set the mood of the era. Delicately sculpted calibre ruby, sapphire, and emerald and glorious, carved colored gemstones in the Indian style were used extensively in all forms of personal ornament. Strong color combinations were popular. Coral, turquoise, jade, onyx, lapis lazuli, chalcedony, malachite, amber, and mother of pearl were often used in combination with one another. Geometric diamond cuts – the baguette, the emerald cut, the asscher cut – were designed to enhance the strong linear style that defined the look of the era. Egyptian motifs (hieroglyphs and scarabs) and Oriental themes (images from Japanese, Chinese, and Indian art) were pervasive and highly coveted. It was an era of feast and celebration.

Although the economic depression of the 1930s devastated the fortunes of many, the desire and market for high end jewelry remained strong amongst the elite. Large jewels – often chunky in design- were not only the norm, they were donned in lavish multiples. Big diamonds in a mix of fancy cutting styles were commonplace among the upper class – more so than in the previous decade. This strange paradox of feast in the presence of famine ensured that a person of wealth would still be recognized for their class. In a nod to practicality, large and fabulous jewels could be taken apart to form simpler day styles. An important lady would never be seen without the appropriate jewels and was always prepared for a milieu of fashionable events.

Towards the middle of the 1930s, the look of yellow gold reclaimed its position in the fashion world. Chunky gold bracelets and brooches, sculpted and set with diamonds and gems of a single color set the new fashion. Many major design houses began to see the benefits of creating a signature look – something special and unique to their firm. The respected and established French design firm of Van Cleef and Arpels introduced their characteristic “Hexagone” design in 1934 – a mosaic of articulated gold hexagons that became so popular it was utilized in everything from bracelets to earrings. VCA also produced the first invisibly set brooches, using specially cut ruby and sapphire set in a platinum mesh frame to create a contoured piece that looked devoid of metal framework. Other houses followed suit, promoting their looks via the world’s new royalty: Stars of the Silver Screen.

Please view the McTeigue jewelry collection or call us to find out more.